Southwark is a fascinating place, where ancient edifices hide behind ugly modern buildings that themselves jostle alongside some of the capital's most remarkable modern architecture. You can visit Sam Wanamaker's visionary rebuilt Globe Theatre, or stroll a hundred yards or so and see the site of the real Globe, marked out on a modern car park that now occupies the site - or visit the little museum at the Rose Theatre, where you can look down on the actual theatre foundations lying under water for preservation, waiting for a grant to excavate them properly.